(or how to move onto a sailboat) With the advent of our 50th birthdays came the usual sorts of life evaluations that one goes through. At what have I succeeded? What contributions have I made? What do I have left that I want to do before I die? Living on the water was high on both our lists. For any who share the dream, and for our family members who might not understand, this is our story. We don't know where it will take us, but welcome along for the ride!
Monday, August 26, 2024
A travel day after all
Wednesday, August 21, 2024
Logfishing
I don't think you need a special license to go logfishing in Canada. But if someone wants to catch logfish they need a really big hook with really, really, stout line. An anchor and chain will do in a pinch.
At first, the chain came aboard as normal as we took up the 90 feet or so we had in the water. But then the winch motor started to struggle even as the chain kept coming aboard and the boat drifted a little. Clearly we were not stuck to the bottom. This was something new. As more chain came aboard, the mystery was solved. The chain had somehow gotten itself warped completely around a good sized log including throwing a pretty good excuse for a cinch knot. The weight of the anchor was holding the cinch tight and the logfish wasn't going anywhere.
Deb and I traded places for a couple of minutes. Me on the deck and her at the helm while I tried to unravel the dilemma of how to unravel the chain. My first thought was to just dead lift the anchor to take the load off the cinch. That should let the log just slide out of the loop. I reached down to grab the chain but Deb had already mention that I needed to watch my fingers. That warning triggered something I had learned a long, long time ago. When things heavy get tangled up and loaded this way they tend to unload with enthusiasm. Various heavy things tend to fly off in unanticipated directions at speeds that will do much damage to any fingers, arms, and even legs, that happen to be in the way. I poked at the mess a bit more with a boat hook but it was no match for the weight of the anchor. Whatever it was that needed done would require more than two hands. Fortunately the wind wasn't blowing nor was there any current. With the anchor at the surface and the logfish still hanging in front of the bow, First Light was content to just sit right were she was. Which made the whole thing a lot easier.
Deb came down from the helm. With the two of us working together we got one of the bow dock lines looped around the anchor hoop. That way I could lift without being in the line of flying heavy things.
It worked. The chain slapped around as the logfish spun a bit and then slipped free. The anchor dropped, snapping the chain tight in a way that would surely mangle any body parts in the way. I got back up on the helm. We got the anchor aboard and I backed away from the scene of the crime. The logfish might have been lurking right under the bow, waiting to munch on a passing propeller or thump a rudder a good one. Maybe it sank back to the bottom to await another anchor. All I know is that we cleared the area with no more ado.
Other than a few fishermen, we were the only boat in the shipping channel to Sault St. Marie. Kind of a surprise as I was under the impression that this is a rather busy port. There is a one way channel north and and different one way channel south. There are places on the chart where the two are separated by a few hundred feet of water that is just 3 feet deep. Don't get out of the channel. No wonder they are one way.
Once in the harbor itself, we went hunting for the Roberta Bondar Marina. It is on the small side with less than 30 slips and an interesting approach, one that is kind of hard to spot for a first timer until you are almost past it. Follow the route line on the chart and “Oh, there it is!” Helping hands got us tied too and it isn't even 1400 yet.
After getting situated, we took a walk along a pretty nice boardwalk that they have here along the waterfront. The boardwalk is the beginning of a 25km trail that's supposed to be only for bikes, feet, etc. but we did see some motorized scooters along the way. The trail goes quite a ways and passes by a ton of historically important places with educational placards along it. We only walked as far as the locks and back, but we were pretty impressed with their waterfront improvement project. I wish St. Louis would be able to complete something like this for the waterfront by the Arch.
When we finish up here, we will be heading back into the US. In fact, I can see it off the stern of the boat. But first we are going to take a train ride. (More on that tomorrow.)
Sunday, August 11, 2024
Plan to make a plan
This was our fourth day, third full day, in the anchorage at Shawanaga Island. Though relatively quiet here for most of the day, there were some thick clouds and heavy rain out over the inlet earlier. The waterspout warning is still in effect and the heavy cloud out past the inlet had some ominous looking trail clouds hanging out. The radar suggested that we would be getting some pretty heavy rain falling on us before the day was out. It never really showed. First Light is still swinging back and forth like a giant wind vane on a stormy day. Come to think of it that is exactly what she is and, if I am honest, the motion is getting a bit tiresome. Still, it was a good day to be riding to a well-set anchor in a protected inlet.
Tomorrow was looking like the day to be on the move again. But the latest weather reports are looking less promising with the winds not fading as much as first thought. Right now, as the sun is setting, the wind is still blowing and cold enough to make it feel much closer to winter than it actually is. So at the moment our plan to deviate from is to not have a plan. We will see what we see in the morning.
Go or not go, this has been a good, if forced, stop. When living as close to the weather as all full-time boaters do, the weather makes the plans.
Friday, August 2, 2024
A little contentment is a lot of good...
This will be our second night in a row on the anchor. Something that hasn't happened very often on this trip. In fact this may be the first time. Since we didn't have a lock or swing bridge to wait on (something else that hasn't happened very often on this trip) we got moving well before 0900. It was less than a two hour jaunt from Midland to Chimney Bay so we beat the expected weekend crowd. When we got here there were three or four boats already hooked to the bottom. Now, including First Light, there are fourteen. There is room for a few more. Beausoleil Island appears to be a popular spot. We are planning to spend at least one more full day and a second night here, maybe more. It seems like it has been a while since we just relaxed and enjoyed being on the boat and this looks like a good place to practice that skill again. Hanging out for a whole weekend might be just what we need.
We haven't been on the island yet. First Light was showing the miles and battle scars of the last few weeks. After grinding up and down in more locks then I ever care to see again, the dirt from the fenders was ground into her flanks both port and starboard. The locks also meant constant traffic up and down the side decks, making for more ground in dirt. But the thing that was irking me the most was the spider poop spots peppering every surface of the exterior cabin. That stuff must be little blotches of near pure acid. It eats its way down into the paint making for some serious scrubbing. Even then it often leaves a mark. I appreciate that the little buggers prey on the flying/biting insect population which has been a constant irritation (literally) for much of this trip. But their deposits offset that contribution. Nor am I a fan of running into one of their webs first thing in the morning when I am up and about but not really with it yet.
Then there was the port side aft cockpit scupper that came out a little the worse when I bounced it off the dock during the aborted wind gusting attempt to tie up in the Big Chute Marina. Some sanding, fiberglass putty, a bit more sanding, and a little paint made for an okay-it-will-keep-until-St. Louis repair.
While I scrubbed the upper surface, Deb donned flippers, mask, and snorkel and brushed away some of the fuzz below the water line. One thing about fresh water boating, the bottom doesn't get fouled near as quickly and the zincs last a lot longer as compared to playing in salt water. At some point in there, I slipped into the water myself. I've heard lots of raves about the clear water in Canada but we must not be there yet. The vis here is maybe 10 feet of really green water. Still, this is a pretty place that is somewhat protected and, now that the day boaters have gone home, pretty calm. Add in a low key approach, enough room for a bunch of boats, nothing to stress over (for now anyway), and a boat that looks like someone actually cares for it? We are pretty content this evening.
Wednesday, September 6, 2023
Last Night on First Light
This is this year's last night at anchor on First Light. In celebration of getting this far, (and regardless of it being some 85 nm as the goose flies to big water) we broke out our conch horn to herald the setting sun. Though a bit warm (actually over 90 degrees according to the thermometer) the water is still, the boat unmoving, and the surroundings are filled with boats and trees...exactly what a sailor looks for when the journey is over. Few people in the world have had the opportunity to find such a place and sit contentedly, regardless of the chaos, regardless of the unrest, and unconcerned over what the future might hold because it is outside any individual's control anyway. The horn echoed over the water, wound its way around the boats and the trees, one simple note sent off and held as long as breath allowed in the hopes the universe would understand that we understand, and are thankful.
We are still miles from St. Louis. Many months by boat, a couple of days by rental van. The van trip will start as soon as the boat is blocked secure on land and prepped for the winter. That effort will start in the morning with a short motor to the pump out and then to the lift pit. After that will come months on land. But they will be good months filled with some of the people we love most in the world and have missed every day of our journey. Word has it there is a job waiting for me that will help fill the coffers that took a bit of a beating this summer. There might even be enough left over to add a Uke or two to the collection.
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| The view from my chair in the cockpit. |
Saturday, August 5, 2023
Hooked...
Monday, July 31, 2023
Almost made it...
We were supposed to be at anchor tonight. We got up this morning and went to Deb's Doctor's appointment. There we got permission to be on our way. $500 worth of provisioning purchased at four different stores on the way back to the boat got stowed. The boat was topped with water. All ground power lines were pulled in and we left one dock to go to another dock, tied up starboard side to so the diver (and good friend) had easy access to the boat. While he was cleaning the bottom and replacing a couple of zincs Grandson Eldest and I emptied the holding tank. Then the 3 of us went over to the Bean for a final round of iced coffee. After that we climbed aboard and, with the help of some friends, I made a complete botch of getting off the dock in a slight port to starboard cross wind. Embarrassing, but nothing got damaged. During the next several minutes we changed our mind three for four times as to where we were going to anchor, with the final decision being to head out into the Neuse river where we could find a little more depth and swing room to drop the hook. Happy with a place, I called for the anchor pin to be pulled and hit the down switch. A second later the winch locked up. After a few minutes of struggling with it on the bouncing deck I made the decision to head back to the dock for troubleshooting and repair.
Once safely tied back on the dock from which we started this morning, I started working on the winch. I must be getting old because it took me about 2 hours to figure out the 5 minute repair needed to fix the thing. Yes we have the operations manual on board. Yes we got it out and read through it. And no, it didn't help at all. Nothing in the manual reflected the problem I was seeing.
Somehow the clutch locking pin got pulled instead of the anchor pin. The pin I thought was going to get pulled is about ¾ inch in diameter, about 6 inches long, and goes through the anchor and anchor roller mount bracket. The one that got pulled is about ¼ inch in diameter and sticks out of the clutch cover itself maybe half an inch. But pull on that thing when the motor is engaged and bang, a solid steel, spring loaded locking pin pops out and jams hard against a lock block. All of the actions recommended by the operations manual to move the clutch proved useless as the assembly was completely jammed. One must remove the lock block itself, located at the 6 o'clock position below the clutch and held in place with two hard to reach bolts, to release the pin. This allows one to use the motor to spin the clutch so the big locking pin is at 12 o'clock where it can be pushed back down into its hole to be held in place by the little locking pin that should never have been pulled in the first place.
The whole debacle was entirely the captain's (that would be me) fault. I was simply not careful enough to rehearse what we would be doing to deploy the anchor. A simple process, pull the big pin and push the anchor off the deck to be lowered into the water. But all I said was “pull the pin”. The one that caught the eye of the puller was the little one. Easy mistake that could have been avoided if I had been more careful. So I learned two things. The first was actually a re-learning: there is no such thing as being redundant and annoying when it comes to explaining to someone who is new to a system what needs to be done. The second, I now know the 5 minute fix.
In any case we are back on the dock for tonight. By the time I pulled my head out of my butt and got the thing fixed, the sun was nearly set. Call it a day. The crew is enjoying one more shore side shower. Deb in particular as she has been cleared to remove her brace as long as she is not walking or the boat is in motion. Me? I'm typing this and sipping a glass of my favorite rum while trying not to be too embarrassed by my poor showing for the day. Tomorrow we will give it another try.Friday, March 16, 2018
At last...
Another delight has been the appearance of wildlife. Even though we live closer to the natural world than most even when in the marina, just a few hundred feet off shore it feels like the cosmos ignores the fact that humans are around. Yesterday evening a gaggle of a dozen or more pelicans went into a feeding frenzy just off the starboard side. It was a parade of the big birds all but hovering 10 to 20 feet off the water, then twisting and bending their wings for a kind of feathered cannon ball crash into the water. Some kind of tern were also in on the action, landing on the heads and backs of the pelicans hoping (apparently) to make off with a meal. I haven’t seen that happen before; it seemed kind of a bold move to me. The pelicans didn't seem to mind, which didn't surprise me. Pelicans are the stoics of the Aves family of animals; unruffled, capable, content, and completely at home in their environment.
Thursday, April 13, 2017
0400 on a wind blown anchorage
Exhausted, sleep finely won out just as the sun came up. The wind was still hovering around 20 knots but it would be a near beam reach in a following sea. Deb went about doing the engine checks and prepping the inside of the boat, letting me sleep as long as she could. But around 0730 she had to roust me out, not an enviable task. Bleary eyed and fuzzy headed, I stumbled out to the still rocking and pitching deck to get the boat ready to make sail - a task repeated so many times over the last few years that I can, as the saying goes, “Do it in my sleep.” Getting the anchor up was a different song and dance, given we were riding hard against the snubber and pitching just short of putting the bow under water. Still, all fingers and toes were accounted for when the anchor was up, pinned, cabled and tied.

A few minutes later the bow swung to the south west, the point of sail being just forward of a beam reach. The big jib spun out cleanly, the Beast was given a break, and ye ol' Tartan slipped through the waves at better than 5 knots. Staying on board at 0400 started to seem like a good choice after all.
A couple of hours later the speed slipped with the winds finally starting to fade a little. The main sail went up, still with two reefs, enough to bring the speed back up as well. A little later the wind faded some more and we shook the reefs out of the main. A little later still, a little less wind, we added the staysail to the mix. For the first time in a while, Kintala was making way flying everything. It was grand; staying on board at 0400 was definitely the better choice.
Of course it couldn't last. About half way through the 50 mile run the white caps disappeared off the waves, the seas flattened out, the speed fell off, and the sails started to slat. As nice as the sail had been, it was equally as nice when the jib and staysail rolled in smooth and clean, nary a drama or a snag. We left the main up mostly for show, and motored along.
An hour or so before dark we raised the entry to Boot Key Harbor. The main sail dropped into the lazy jacks with a pretty good flake, making it 3 for 3 in sail management for the day. That sounds like a minor thing, but it offers some hope that our recent run of difficulties doing that thing most basic to sailing, i.e. putting up and taking down sails, may be in the past. Some hardware changes and using different techniques have, hopefully, put those things behind us. One of the projects for this summer will be to change some of the running rigging and modify the lazy jacks, with the intent of excising the last of our sail handling gremlins.
Since we were planning to take a bus down to Key West for a day, and the winds are forecast to be in the 30s, we called the marina on the off chance they might have a mooring available. Amazingly enough they did, even one with an easy approach. We motored in and picked up the ball just like we knew what we were doing.
This is the first time we have been on a mooring in Boot Key, and the difference between being anchored out while here and now on a ball has been a bit of a surprise. With easy access to the marina being included in the fee, we head to shore every day. With all the boats around us also on a mooring ball, when the wind blows in the middle of the night we worry less about other boats getting free and running us down. Inside the harbor as we are, even with the winds howling, the ride is calm and sleep easy to find.
The cost isn't insignificant. In addition to the mooring fee itself, easy access to land means easy access to restaurants and ground transportation. We have spent nearly as much money “eating out” in the days we have been here as we did on food the entire time we were in the islands. For budget cruisers that is startling.
We have made some new friends who stopped by the boat because they saw “St. Louis, MO” on our stern. But the fact is, being on shore everyday, makes it so much easier to make connections to the tribe. Casual conversations are normally not so casual between boats that are anchored. There is a kind of perceived aura around an anchored boat, one that – often quite properly – suggests “strangers not welcome." Sitting in the cockpit and waving or nodding at those who pass by helps, but there is no getting around that deep in most cruiser souls is a streak of “loner”. We are different than those who live on land, and outnumbered millions and millions to one. We are loners almost by definition.
Yet, on the other hand, I have softened my inner, puritan voice, the one that whispers that true cruisers anchor out whenever they can. I don't know that I'll ever be of the group that goes from dock to dock, but that may be more an economic necessity than a choice of lifestyle. When I can spare the dollars, a mooring ball or occasional dock visit is a different kind of cruising, with pluses (and minuses) of its own.
One of which might be fewer times of thinking of jumping off the boat at 0400 on a windy morning.































