Monday, August 14, 2023

I stand corrected from my correction...

We left the Dismal Swamp Visitors Center this morning. The trick was to time the bridge / lock opening so as not to miss it or to spend too much time holding station waiting for it to open. The other trick was to move at a speed appropriate for the conditions; ie SLOW. Upon pushing off of the dock it was clear that we were in a different Dismal Swamp than the one from the day before. This one was was truly dismal. 

The water was scummed over making it that much more difficult to spot floating debris and logs. The channel was narrower, shallower, and had tree branches just shy of brushing the boat. The water itself was full of branches with fallen trees tied up to signs and shore in attempts to keep the waterway navigable.



Within minutes we heard the first “thunk” of something getting stirred up off the bottom and chewed up in the prop. We moved along at less than 5 knots doing our best to avoid more thumps while still moving fast enough for the rudders to steer the boat. But it was impossible. Each thump caused the crew to jump a little but it appeared that nothing was being damaged...until the very last one before we got to the bridge.





A hard thunk scared everyone and a noticeable vibration off the starboard side engine scared everyone even more. Dropping the revs eased the shaking. I tried neutral, a few moments in low reverse, and back to forward. It eased the shake a tiny bit but did not eliminate it. Clearly we took some kind of damaging hit. A check of the engine room showed no leaking around the seals and no vibration in the shaft. Which was all good news. Other than a minor shake nothing else seemed amiss. After a bit of debate we elected to keep going. Truth to tell I'm not sure there was another option. Before anything could be done we had to get out of the swamp. We cleared the last lock and limped on.

Once clear of the swamp I played with the power settings. Revs that would get us a touch over 5 knots were fine. Anything more and the shake was too noticeable to be comfortable. My best guess is that we bent a prop blade a little. Not a major concern, but a concern nonetheless. We stopped at a small marina called Top Rack for fuel, a desperately needed pumpout, and to ask about a diver. Fuel and a pumpout they had, but no diver to recommend. So we pressed on to the free docks in the heart of Portsmouth. Kind of a cool place this. Well, not cool as it is something like 102 degrees. But there are big ships all around, ferry boats coming and going, the Navel Shipyard museum is literally a few steps off our starboard side, and we are sitting in the middle of a big city in our boat. A bit of a change since we have been more or less off the grid for much of the last few days. 



Weather forecasts suggests we will be here for a a day or so waiting out some potentially serious storms. We are hoping to get a diver on the boat today or tomorrow just to be careful. We have full water tanks and an empty holding tank, but the fridge is getting bare after days off grid, so a provisioning run is also in the plan. There is some concern about hanging around this spot to wait out the weather. After the sun went down last night the ambiance surrounding the boat took a decided turn. At one point a land side wanderer started shouting at me as I closed up the fly bridge for the night. He wasn't being particularly coherent and I wasn't particularly interested in engaging in conversation with him. Something to which he seemed to take offense as his side of the conversation deteriorated into shouts, insults, and threats to return to teach me some kind of lesson. I have some experience in those kinds of lessons, wasn't particularly concerned, and let him sputter off without returning any comment. But, having some experience in those kinds of lessons, I spent most of the night on "anchor watch" with phone close at hand and 911 ready on the speed dial. Still, this is a well protected place to ride out storms which, seems to me anyway, are the bigger hazard at the moment.

Difficult as it has been, it feels good to be out of the ICW. These past few months have been some of the most challenging Deb and I have faced for a long, long, (long) time. I am both thankful that we managed and relieved to be this far north. Limping along? Maybe. Heading in the right direction? So far so good. But I've had my fill of the Dismal Swamp. I am (depending on how broken we are) sort of glad we went this way once. But I can't imagine I'll ever take the risk of doing it again. Nor would I ever suggest anyone else go this way by choice, at least not in a boat like First Light. The channel is simply too narrow, too shallow, and too full of things that can break a boat. This boat is still struggling through this shake down cruise.  It doesn't need any help getting broke.

Dismal Swamp slime

Finally a new state

It's steaming hot


1 comment:

TJ said...

Good to hear from you Mike. Sorry for the late response but we have been on the move. I'd like to say something along the lines of, for all of its challenges this has been a good trip. But the trip is was it is, we are just dealing with things as they come up, changing plans as necessary, and doing our best to do our best. I will admit to looking forward to being back in St. Louis for the winter. I miss that part of the family.

We are in Back Creek in the Solomons for a day or so, always one of our favorite places. It is good to be here again. Talk to you soon.